No! not Gainsborough’s.

Gucci’s.

Times have changed, as amply pointed out by the front page article in this morning’s New York Times Style section, “The Ornamental Male” (by Guy Trebay).   Ornamental indeed!

However, before I saw the boy I saw the blue item at his neck and wondered if it were a beadcrocheted necklace – it looked almost like one of mine at first  http://www.msturman.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=147&zenid=2e2b2e89c8235a88763c0082269de071 . Then I took in the whole image! Wow! this beautiful creature was a guy with a blue bandana knotted at his neck! The whole outfit is blue and the guy is too gorgeous.

I turned pages to peruse the remainder of the article, looking to see if there were other neck ornamentation on these very ornamental boys. Maybe a chain or two. Hmmm. These fellas are so gorgeous they put many of us women to shame — the sculpted cheeks, the defined bone structure!

So, what about beaded jewelry for guys? Why not — especially when they’re so gorgeous?

As a jewelry artist, I am frequently asked what inspires me.  This question to date has always given me trouble, whether it’s from an interviewer or for an application for a competition.  The short answer is that I am very impacted by visual “events” such that inspiration is in everything I see all around me.

I go to Tucson each February to teach and to shop and am always captivated by the forms, light and colors of the mountains and deserts.  I don’t watch television very much, but my business partner, who travelled there with me, does enjoy television; I watched with her a few times and was always wowed by a number of the commercials – it’s just the way I see.

While we were weather-delayed in Arizona last week, we went to the Phoenix Art Museum to see the exhibition “Ansel Adams:  Discoveries”.  I had never seen his work before and frankly wasn’t much interested in seeing photography.  I entered the exhibit space, began looking at the photographs, and it wasn’t long before my jaw dropped in awe.  I became exhausted from the awe, from seeing what he saw:  these black and white photos showed you the colors of the subjects, whether architectural or the environment of the southwest; these black and white photos were full of texture that made you want to reach forward and touch; these black and white photos were full of line, movement and the creative expression of juxtapositions of form.  I was dizzy by the time I finished seeing this.

Ansel Adams stated that the unique character of his work was motivated by the practice of “careful seeing”.  I was so happy to know this, since it validated my own visual proclivities, although I am more profligate in my seeing, rather than careful.

Inspiration also comes to me from my visual response to the materials I choose to work with, the colors, form, and shape of pearls and stones – the more unusual the better.  I am also enamoured of vintage stones and beads – their age, uniqueness and difference from jewelry components today.  Using these materials makes my work unlike anything else on the market, such as the necklace “Tails” crocheted of tailed, circled natural lustrous top-drilled pearls and freshwater pearls; the woven necklace “Diorissimo” in which I bezeled vintage Swarovski stones; and the Conchita necklaces that focus on the most unusually formed stones.

Does seeing inspire you?

Is it me? Or is it this time of year?  Or are the stars in poor alignment?  What?  Or am I just now noticing that nothing is easy when it comes to me making my jewelry?

So, I thought I’d share the process and perhaps get some pointers or something.

For me, beginning a piece always means being excited by the material.  Usually it is something I’ve just found and bought, so I go straight to work on it.  If I don’t work with something immediately, then the chances are that I never will do, unless there is a fortuitous moment in the future when the one purchase goes perfectly with something new.  I don’t hold my breath, though.

Having overcome the dollar signs and purchased something wonderful, the process continues.  I need to assemble accompanying or complementary beads to set off the original inspiration.  Think this is easy?  Have a look at my studio:  each drawer, large and small contains hundreds of beads, pearls, semi-precious stones, vintage elements.  I often need to access other boxes lingering on shelves above my table that contain still more inventory and look through them, too.  This takes time, as I rarely find what I’m looking for immediately, and sometimes not at all, which really puts me in a pout, since I just can’t compromise on my vision.

When I find and assemble everything I need for a project, sometimes I then move on to continue this process with other new purchases, and then set those aside, too, with the others.  Often, when I return to the original, I can’t remember what I had in mind or I’m not as excited as I was originally.  No, I don’t sketch, am simply unable to translate my vision onto paper, since I never know exactly how something will turn out:  my process is always a “what if” – I do this or that.

But the real kicker is finishing a piece and not being thrilled with the outcome!  I have this unreal expectation that everything I do must be a masterpiece.  More often than not, it just isn’t – it’s just another necklace, bracelet or pair of earrings, nice but not drop dead.

In between the finding and inspiration and finishing the piece is a long process, which is supposed to be ultimately the satisfying reward of creating: working in a sort-of zen-like zone of peace and enlightenment.  Well . . .

So, as I said, nothing is really easy.  At least now for me!

The new decade has begun, as have new resolutions, new diets and exercise programs.  But most of all, the beginning of each new year brings the awards season.  I checked the list of nominees for the Golden Globe, SAG, and Critics Choice awards, forming a fantasy wish list involving which of the nominees should wear my jewelry on the red carpets — especially the Oscars!

My hands down favorite actresses, Meryl Streep and Helen Mirren, are each not classically, celebrity-popular, drop-dead gorgeous.  As excellent actresses they have in common the talent, intelligence and craft to become whichever role they play — from gorgeous to school-marmish to hariden.

It would be such an honor, for instance, to have Ms. Streep wear my classic bib-style necklace of jet CRYSTALLIZEDtm — Swarovski Elements appliqued with vintage margarita crystals.

Having played a queen, Helen Mirren would look classic and elegant wearing a woven collar — the Queen’s Collar, again CRYSTALLIZED — Swarovski Elements, woven with vintage emerald cut stones.

One of the most popular actresses in the market is Sandra Bullock, who, like Meryl Streep, this year is nominated for two of her films. Here is a lovely, talented actress and savvy business woman we all can admire, who would look perfect on the red carpets wearing Diorissimo, very old Swarovski stones set off by 24-k gold plated seed beads.

Julianne Moore is also a terrific actress and a real beauty — I love the red hair!  She often wears purple to set off her mane, but in my fantasies I see her in a black dress paired with my Amethyst Conchita necklace.

I was  transfixed when I saw Marion Cotillard playing Edith Piaf and then saw how lovely and dramatic she really is when she appeared to collect her Oscar for it.  I can see her at this years’ awards wearing my Evening in Rio collar.

Carey Mulligan was charming in “An Education” and I can see her waif-like face set off by a pair of bold, dramatic earrings, such as my  vintage blown glass and gold-plated beads earrings .

Gabourey Sidibe is a big young woman and would look fabulous in many of my necklaces, but I particularly would like to see her wear my “Games People Played” necklace, a big necklace crocheted of vintage gaming pieces.

Who doesn’t look great in pearls, particularly fine ones in interesting shapes?  Even Queen Victoria did!  Emily Blunt in all her elegance and drama would look fabulous with my “Chicken Feet” necklace setting off her face.  

So, how about some feedback on fantasies?  Want to add to my Wish List with suggestions of your own?

I hope you’ll join myself and three other New York City entrepreneurs at our Holiday Gift Event.  We feature an array of artist-made products for holiday gifting.  Sip wine, visit and browse:

WHAT: HOLIDAY GIFT EVENT
WHEN: Tuesday December 15, 2009
6:30-9pm
WHERE: In Good Company Workspaces (IGC)
16 West 23rd Street, 4th Floor, NYC

WHO:

RAANDESK ART GALLERY
Raandesk Gallery makes art collecting accessible and affordable by offering small-scale original artworks from its ART2Gift Collection, made up of quality art gifts on sale for $35 to $500.

M. STURMAN JEWELLERY
M. STURMAN JEWELLERY features one-of-a-kind handwoven or crocheted jewelry that incorporates the most unusual  colored stones, pearls, vintage beads and crystals.  Add style to your wardrobe with handmade jewelry.

KATIE JAMES INC

Katie James, Inc. is an independent label for feminine, funky and functional designs for accessories, websites, and collectible pieces of clothing. All accessories are independently produced in New York and Alabama. We use the finest fabrics to achieve the most unique color combinations, and give long life to all products.Good fabric always lasts, and so do our styles.

CHEEKY LIVING LLC
Cheeky Living works with artisans in South America to bring wonderful fashion and home accessories made from the finest materials…  Our product line includes baby alpaca throws, hats, gloves and scarves; leather tote bags and vintage items.

Won’t you join us for a drink and a browse?

Apparently, the eco-friendly trend in jewelry is still very much with us:  I saw an amazing line of jewelry by an Italian designer in Bergdorf Goodman again today, pieces made of carved ebony and paired with metals.  I believe that ebony is a very hard wood, making these spidery focals of carved and polished ebony doubly awesome.  This put me in mind of my ebony necklace, in which I paired large ebony beads with chunks of chalcedony stones and used faceted chalcedony lozenges to weave covers over some of the ebony beads.  More rustic and eco than than my Italian counterpart, but distinctive in its own way.

But, then, aren’t all gemstones natural?  To say nothing about pearls, especially natural ones.  Although even with unusually shaped pearls, the sort I prefer to perfectly round ones, dying them can offset their unusual shapes, such as the 3-strand necklace of gold-dyed baroque pearls and woven keshi pearl flowers as shown below in my own fashion  flash.

What do you think of pearls — dyed or natural — are they eco-friendly?

I was stopped dead in my tracks, so to speak, when I came across the article and pictures on the front page of the Times’ Sunday Style section. My roving eye for color and for jewelry fixed on the images of women wearing huge pieces of jewelry. I wished the article contained more information and so was surprised and delighted when I went online and found a narrated video version of it by Bill Cunningham, the Times’ On the Street Photographer, entitled “Fashion Fireworks”
http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/07/02/fashion/20090705-street-feature/index.html?ref=fashion# .

The narrative was delightful and there were more pictures in the video then in the newspaper. Cunningham tells about the gigantic fake stone necklaces made of light weight plastic that he found perfect for this holiday, hence “Fashion Fireworks.” The flash of the jewelry complemented the fireworks in the sky and I couldn’t agree more.

Cunningham points out that in the current economic climate women are not buying clothes as they used to but are adding sparkle to what they have with this big jewelry. He further urges women to put on all their jewelry at once, as shown in a few of his photos. His message is that, despite the poor economy, women should nevertheless have fun with dressing, not be inhibited about it and not think such pieces are too much. YES!!

While the pieces I make cannot be completed with old spare jewelry parts while sitting on a beach as Cunningham suggests, I definitely “do” gigantic and sparkle. I’m currently working on a new line of pieces featuring rough stone medallions and more rough cut beads, pearls and colored stones. I’m very excited about them and can’t wait to complete them, have them photographed and put up for sale on www.msturman.com.

So I definitely agree with Cunningham that women should update their wardrobe with jewelry, new or repurposed. How do you have fun with fashion these days?

If you’ve seen the pictures of my jewelry on my website, then you know that I like big jewelry, unusual stones, pearls and beads. I am a big person myself and can wear it, even though I have never liked wearing jewelry myself. However, my best customers have been petite women! I think it’s just one’s feeling about oneself — a sense of fearlessness or a willingness to be seen.

I am often asked to say what my inspiration is. I wish I could respond by pointing to nature or history or a particular color, but the only answer is that I take inspiration from the unusual nature of the materials I purchase. When stones or pearls catch my eye because of their sparkle, sheen, shape or surface texture, they create a sense of excitement in me and a feeling of potential to make a really smashing piece of jewelry.

I rarely know how a piece will turn out, I just go with the process and see what happens. I confess I regret when a piece of jewelry doesn’t make me cheer when I’m finished with it, since I try to operate at 100%, 100% of the time in my life. But when in life does that ever happen? Neither does it happen in my art all the time – but when it does you’ll see it on my website!