Last Sunday in the New York Times Magazine, David Colman wrote about pearls in “You Go Pearl!” http://bit.ly/8RxJhX. Mr. Colman relates a credible, concise history of pearls in fashion beginning with Seneca. These pearls were natural ones that indeed were prized and precious as there were so few of them to be found.
Pearls are nacreous organic gems formed in the body of a mollusk — a mussel or an oyster. Natural pearls are those formed without human assistance. So, due to constant demand, the world’s main pearling grounds were depleted by over-fishing in the late 18th century. Experiments in forming cultured pearls, those formed as the result of human intervention in the formation process by either bead or tissue nucleation, began in the 1890s, and by 1920, Mikimoto marketed cultured pearls internationally.
There are two main kinds of pearls: saltwater and freshwater. Saltwater pearls are nucleated with a bead and come in three main types: Akoya pearls from the P. fucata oysters are white, round, lustrous and come from saltwater farms in areas of Japan/China. Tahitian pearls from the P. margaritifera black-lipped oyster, are relatively large and come in lustrous colors, farmed in saltwater farms around French Polynesia/Cook Islands. South Sea pearls from P. maxima oysters are silver,white, or yellow, and are farmed in the saltwater farms around Australia.
Freshwater pearls are cultured in mussels in freshwater farms around China and Japan and come in various sizes and colors due to the way they are made: Tissue nucleation, the insertion of a piece of tissue into the freshwater mussel, induces it to form a cultured pearl. However, because up to 50 tissue pieces of tissue can be implanted in one mussel during the nucleation procedure, freshwater cultured pearls are plentiful and usually come in irregular shapes.
We’ve all seen examples of both types of pearls. Who wouldn’t want a strand of one of the amazing varieties of saltwater pearls? They are gorgeous and perfect, and quite expensive — the more perfectly round and lustrous, the more expensive.
If you have seen my work in pearls, you’ll know that I use freshwater pearls, of all sizes and colors. But the main point
here — and the reason I have bored you with a much-condensed review of cultured pearl history/formation — is that the less perfect, the more unusual the shape or markings on pearls, the better I like it. Take for instance my necklace of top-drilled, circled (the markings around the pearls), and tailed pearls here. To me, this is interesting, dynamic jewelry.
Many women throughout the years, as cited by Mr. Colman in his article, are famous for wearing perfect, knotted and tied strands of pearls. I however do something different with my knotted and tied freshwater pearls, as in my 96″ rope of natural (undyed), graduated size, pearls here. These can be wrapped around the neck several times or looped in many ways — to me much more interesting than a plain strand, however perfect or expensive.
I particularly love natural (undyed), lustrous freshwater pearls that come formed into
interesting shapes, such as Chicken Feet but using dyed freshwater
pearls makes for a dynamic necklace too.
Mr. Colman remarks of Marc Jacobs that in his spring dresses the designer festooned them with “buckets of pearls” — a dynamic idea, indeed. Wouldn’t you rather just wear a necklace of freshwater pearls?